***A quick tip before we start. I suggest using a woven fabric. I tried with a cotton spandex and it was too thick in spots.***
You will need:
swivel hook-I like the ones attached to a split key ring or 1/2″ swivel clips
for non directional fabric: 1 piece 7″w x 9.5″-10″h (you really can make them any height) plus interfacing
for directional fabric: 2 pieces 7″w x 5″h plus interfacing
1 piece 2″ x 3″ NO INTERFACING
Start by ironing your interfacing on each piece.
*If you are using non directional fabric, hold tight for just a minute!
Take your two pieces of directional fabric and place right sides together. Make sure both pieces are facing the same direction and stitch the bottom only.
After you have sewn them together, fold it in half to find the center. Make a mark. Snip close to your seam but not through. Trim your seam allowance to reduce bulk.
Open the entire thing up. Press your seam down, pushing each side a different direction-this will allow you to nest your seam to reduce bulk.
*Directional or non directional fabric options continue here:
Tip: wash away hem tape helps so much!
Fold the top and bottom edges down about 1/4″ (this is where I use the hem tape).
Fold it in half to find the center. I marked it just so you can see, it’s not necessary! Open it up then fold each side in to meet the center crease you just made. Then fold in half to hide the raw edges.
***If you are doing directional fabric, this is where you want to nest your seam
Topstitch one short end…this will be the top of the pocket, so pick the pretty side! Set aside for a minute.
To make the tab for the top: 3″ is your length and finished width will be 1/2″. Fold the fabric the same way you did the main piece to hide the raw edges. ***You do not need to fold the ends over though because they will be hidden*** Topstitch the open side.
Loop this piece through your swivel clip and set aside for a minute.
Back to the main piece! Fold the end that you topstitched up, so that it is an inch(ish) from the top of the unsewn end. and clip in place. Now tuck the swivel clip into the top edge.
Start sewing at the bottom on the open side. Stitch all three sides, making sure to backstitch at the beginning/end but also at the top (both sides) of the pocket. Trim your threads and you are finished!!!
These little cuties are perfect for lip balms but also for your essential oil rollerballs!!!
I hope you love these and find this tutorial helpful! Please feel free to use this pattern for personal or small business use, but please keep in mind that this was a lot of trial and error…and wasted fabric! LOL I would appreciate if you would link your friends back to this tutorial. Thank you all!
I was asked to come up with a cute, little zipper pouch that could hold cards on the outside! After a couple tries, I came up with this design and they really are adorable! It sounded really boring to call it a card and coin pouch, so I asked my Facebook group for suggestions! I got a lot of good ones, but the WhatchaMaCallit Wallet just fit perfectly! LOL They are a really quick and easy sew…but the best part is that you can use up your scraps that you haven’t been able to bring yourself to toss!!! So, today I am going to share my pattern with you!
*I do not mind you using this pattern or sharing it, but would very much appreciate if you gave me credit or linked back to this post.
Before we get started, I will share a little knowledge with you! Bag making seems scary but I promise it’s not…jump in and have fun! Get creative! Patterns are just suggestions, if something seems like a better way to you, do it! Try different interfacings or fabrics. There are so many ways to do things and the beauty of sewing is you can do things the way you like or the way they make sense to you! I use Pellon 950f interfacing for all my bags, but I suggest going into a fabric store and feel the different types to decide what will work best for your project! And try different fabric types…I love using my scrap bin for projects like this! You can use wovens, cotton spandex, double brushed poly and even sweater knit!
Now that I’ve told you to get creative, there are somethings you should not do…at least for this pattern! While you can use just about any fabric for the flat side on this (the neon leopard above is double brushed poly), you should only use a woven for the card slot side. If you use an interfaced knit for the card slots, it will be way too thick in several spots. The next one is not a definite No No, but just a suggestion…especially if you are using custom fabric. If I use custom fabric for the flat side, I make my card slots out of a non custom fabric. The reason being, by the time you fold it up you really won’t see much of the pattern, so there’s really no sense in wasting a 16″ strip of expensive fabric.
*All of the fabric I’m using is from So Sew English fabrics https://sosewenglishfabrics.com/. The neon leopard is double brushed poly that I had left over from a shirt I made, the stripes are a seersucker woven and the blue for the lining I believe was a chambray! This shop is hands down my favorite place to get fabric…the quality is always amazing and the prices are very affordable!
So let’s just dive in! Here are the materials you will need:
4.5″ x 6″ 1 pc main fabric
4.5″ x 6″ 2 pcs lining fabric
16″ x 6″ 1 pc fabric for card slots (this will be big but we will trim it down later)
interfacing for all of the above pieces
#3 zipper at least 7″ long-I like to go about 10″ and cut it down later
ruler and marking pen
Iron all of your interfacing on before you start
We are going to start by making the card slots. Take your card slot piece, turn it to the back and mark the top. Start at the top and draw a line 3″ down, then 1.75″ from there, 2.25″, 1.75″, 2.25″, 1.75″. You should have 6 lines drawn.
Now take the top and fold to the front at the 3″ line. Then fold to the back on the 1.75″ line. Forward on the 2.25″ line, back on the 1.75″ line, etc!
The next step is to topstitch each pocket. Fold the other two out of the way to stitch. You should have nice creases now so it won’t be an issue getting them back in place.
Line all of your card slots back up. Now is the time to adjust them if any look crooked. Sew down both sides very close to the edge to lock the slots in place.
You will notice that the card slot side is bigger than the flat side, so we need to trim it down. Take your ruler and measure 1″ from the top of the first card slot, then trim the top edge. Then measuring from the top, we want it to be 4.5″, cut off the extra at the bottom.. Now all 4 pieces should be the exact same size!
If you slide a card into the slots right now, it will not stay put because the slot is too big. There are other ways of doing this so we don’t have the void on the sides but I wanted a simple project so this is how I’m doing it! We need to stitch both sides of the card slot piece, 1.25″ in on both sides. I have this nifty magnetic seam guide that helps me a lot!
Now we are ready for the zipper!!! Switch to your zipper foot now if you have one. Check your machine accessory tray because they don’t all look like mine. Pull the zipper pull all the way to the left…for now, we will have it hanging over the edge of your fabric, this makes it so much easier to sew! Take a lining piece and lay it right side up, then the zipper with pull to the left teeth facing up and finally the card slots right side down. You are sandwiching the zipper between the lining and card slots. Sew the zipper in place. I line the edge of my foot up with the edge of my fabric/zipper sandwich! Then you will flip the lining and main over so they are wrong sides together and topstitch. Repeat with the other side of the zipper.
Push your zipper pull just inside the outer edge of your fabric and put a couple stitches over the zipper to hold it closed. After you have done this Open your zipper 3/4 of the way…this part is very important!
Next, we are going to match up the two outside pieces so they are right sides together and the two lining pieces the same way.
Fold your zipper tape in half toward the outside pieces and clip. Repeat for other side. Clip all the way around leaving an opening on the bottom edge of the lining. Stitch all the way around (except for the hole in the lining) with a 1/4″ (ish) seam allowance. *I use the edge of my foot as my guide. As long as you use the same everywhere, you really can use any seam allowance you want on any bag!* Make sure you backstitch at the beginning and end, but also over both sides of the zipper.
Trim your zipper ends a little closer (but no too close) to the seam to reduce bulk. Clip all 4 corners…again close but don’t snip your stitching. I like to trim a little off the card slot sides just to cut down the bulk but it really isn’t necessary!
Reach in the hole you left open and gently pull the pouch through, so it is right sides out. Use a stick, pencil, etc to gently poke the corners out (make sure you don’t poke through). And also push out the zipper close to the pull. Fold the seam allowance at the opening down inside and top stitch.
Push the lining down into the main and your WhatchaMaCallit Wallet is finished!
I hope this tutorial was helpful and always feel free to ask any questions you have!
This wristlet is a pattern I came up with on my own…after tons of trial and error!!! Please feel free to use this pattern but I would appreciate credit or a link back to this blog if you wouldn’t mind! The plaid main fabric and pink lining fabric is from So Sew English Fabrics https://sosewenglishfabrics.com/ , and the bubbled metallic vinyl and rose gold hardware is from My Punkbroidery https://mypunkbroidery.com/. Check out both of those shops…they are definitely some of my faves!
2 pcs-4.5″ x 10″ of your main fabric plus interfacing for both
2 pcs-3″ x 10″ vinyl
2 pcs- 6.75″ x 10″ of lining plus interfacing
2 pcs-4″ x 6″ for pocket plus interfacing
1 pc 3″ x 13″ or 2 pcs 2.75″ x 13″ (this is if you are using a thicker fabric) 1 pc should be a thin woven plus interfacing
1 pc 3″ x 2″ for the d ring tab NO INTERFACING
4 pcs 1.75″ x 2″ for zipper tabs NO INTERFACING
3/4″ d ring and swivel clip
10″ (or longer) #5 zipper tape and pull to match
I like to start with the d ring tab and the wrist strap because they are my least favorite! If you aren’t using a thick fabric you can just cut your strap as one piece. If your fabric is thick, you will want to back it with something thinner. You also want to use a thinner woven with no stretch for the d ring tab and the zipper tabs. Fold the d ring tab in half and crease it. Open it up and fold both sides into the center crease, then fold the entire piece in half and topstitch. Add your d ring and set aside.
For the strap- if using one piece fold like the step above. My main fabric is thick so I will be backing it with my lining fabric. Sew the two pieces right sides together down one side. Open it up and fold the same way you did the d ring tab. Slide your swivel clip on, removing most of your clips. I like to slide the swivel clip to the middle and use a sewing clip on each side just to keep it out of the way. Open your ends and match them right sides together. Stitch. Trim your seam allowance to remove bulk.
You now have a continuous loop!!! Fold the sides back in and fold in half. Clip in place. Start at the seam and stitch the open side, then flip it and stitch the closed side, moving your swivel clip out of the way as you go. Flip right side out, slide your swivel down close to the seam and stitch across, as close as you can get to the clip. Set aside.
Next we will prep the zipper. I use zipper tape by the yard but you can use a premade zipper. I personally like to have my zipper a little long and cut it down because it gives me a little wiggle room if something doesn’t end up perfect! Start by taking 2 of your zipper tab pieces. Lay one right side up, lay the zipper on top right side up and then the other tab right side down. Stitch. Flip both pieces right sides out and to the end of the zipper. Topstitch.
For the other end, I lay the zipper on top of one of my main pieces and mark where I want my zipper tab at Tip: I like to have a little bit of the tabs hanging over the edge. Now you will sew this end the same way you did the first end. Trim the tabs so they are the same width of the zipper…this makes it easier to sew later! Set your zipper aside for a minute!
Take your 2 main and 2 vinyl pieces. Lay each set right sides together and stitch. Change your stitch length to 3.5 or 4 and if you have a teflon foot…use it now!!! If you don’t have a teflon foot, you can use tissue paper and just pull it off later. Vinyl is sticky so you will definitely want something to help it glide over. Flip the vinyl down and topstitch.
CHANGE YOUR STITCH LENGTH BACK!!!
To sew the pocket-place both pieces right sides together, start sewing at the bottom and sew all the way around leaving a small hole for turning. Trim your corners and cut down any bulk. Turn right side out. Fold in the bottom and clip closed. Topstitch only the top edge.
Take one lining piece and fold in half to find the center. Find the center of your pocket and place in the center of your lining. Pin in place and stitch around the sides and bottom.
Lay your lining piece with the pocket face up. Place the zipper face up with the pull to the left on top, then one of your outside pieces face down. Clip in place. TIP: you may need to move your zipper pull as you sew to keep it out of the way. Change to your zipper foot and sew.
After you have your zipper attached, flip both pieces back and finger press. Topstitch using your zipper foot. Then repeat with the other side.
OPEN YOUR ZIPPER HALF WAY!!!
Fold your main pieces right sides together, start at the vinyl seams so that it looks nice from the sides. Then fold the zipper tabs together towards the outside (sorry this part is hard to explain). Go ahead and do both sides.
Next we will attach the d ring. Look inside and make sure you are putting it on the correct side first. We want the d ring attached to the side that the zipper is open. Then clip it between both layers of fabric. Finish clipping the rest of the way around. Leave a small opening in the lining for turning.
Stitch around the entire thing, making sure to backstitch over the zipper tabs and the d ring tab. Then you also want to do a second line of stitching on the vinyl. This will take the stress off the seams and hopefully prevent ripping! Trim your zipper tabs to reduce the bulk.
To box the corners, you will need a small quilting ruler and a marking pen or chalk. Reach inside the bag and press the corners out so that the seam is flat. Place your ruler with the 3/4″ mark on the seam. That will give you a finished corner of 1.5″. Stitch with two rows of stitching. Repeat with the other 3 corners. Trim off all 4 corners.
Flip right sides out. Use your finger to poke all the corners out. Also poke out the zipper ends…carefully!!!
Fold the lining opening in and stitch it closed. Push the lining inside the wristlet and add your strap!!!
This little wristlet is such a quick sew but is also so beautiful!!!
But sometimes a girl just needs a quicker sew! I still wanted to have a pocket so I put my thinking cap on and came up with the zipper pocket hack! And because so many of you have also asked how I do the rounded base, I will show you that too! For this hack we only need the pattern pieces for the lining, base and stabilizer. You will use the lining piece for your waterproof canvas and your main fabric plus interfacing for the outer, cut two of the round base (I like to use waterproof canvas inside and out), peltex for the stabilizer piece plus two pieces of interfacing, your strap and strap tabs according to the pattern, and a piece of woven for the pocket lining 8.5″ x 10″ with interfacing the same size.
To make the zipper pocket, take your outside piece and fold it in half to find the center. Mark at the top and bottom. I also like to place a clip at both marks so I make sure to line my pocket up properly. Set this aside for a minute.
Now, take your pocket lining piece. Fold it in half to find the center and mark. Measure down 1″ from the top and draw a 7″ line, then move down 1/2″ and draw another 7″ line. Connect the ends to make a rectangle that is 7″ x 1/2″.
Grab your main piece and lay it right side up on your table. Then take the pocket lining piece and lay right side down on top of the main. Place the top edge of your lining along the center markings on your main…this is where the clips come in handy! Pin it in place and sew around the rectangle.
Next we will cut! You want to clip right up to the stitching in the corners but do not snip through…you won’t like yourself very much!!! I draw a triangle at both sides, fold it in half and cut the first triangle with the smallest scissors I can find. Then switch to regular scissors to cut the straight line, then back to the small scissors for the other triangle.
After you have cut it carefully, pull the lining through to the back, and press it flat…I just finger press it but someone who is not lazy would probably suggest using your iron! LOL Tip: I use a small piece of hem tape to hold the top edge down while I am adding the zipper
To attach the zipper, you can use pins but I highly recommend hem tape. The tape allows you to move the zipper easily if you need to, so it ends up perfectly straight. I use hem tape so this is how I am going to show you. Place a piece of hem tape on each side of the zipper opening, pull off the paper and lay your zipper face down (make sure the pull is at the top! Press it down, then flip it over and adjust from the front if needed. Topstitch around the entire rectangle. Tip: I use my zipper foot so I can get close to the zipper.
Open zipper half way!
Flip to the back side and trim your zipper ends. Then you will fold the pocket up and clip around the edges.
Sew around the three open sides of the pocket. Clip your corners and trim the top and bottom edges…this step will make your life easier when you are putting the bag together!
Fold your main piece in half and sew down the open side.
Your zipper pocket is done!!! You can follow along with the pattern to finish constructing the bag!!! But if you want to see how I attach my bases keep reading!
I like to use Peltex for my base stabilizer, but I sandwich it between two pieces of interfacing first. Make the interfacing bigger than the peltex so you can sew it in. After you sew it to your outside bottom piece, trim it.
Now you want to mark 4 equal spots on the base and the main piece.
Match up the 4 marks on the base and main. Clip in place. Then clip a section at a time until you have it clipped all the way around.
Sewing it is the hard part, but if you take it slow I promise it will work out beautifully! Keep the edge of your foot along the edge of the base, go slow and try to keep your base flat! After you finish sewing, carefully make small clips around the canvas…I don’t worry too much about the fabric because it will push out of the way but the canvas is stiff and won’t look as nice from the outside.
Turn it right side out and admire your work! Repeat with the lining. Finish your bag per the pattern instructions!
This pocket fits my Iphone and my older Samsung, however, I don’t have a bigger phone to test it out. My phone fits with a bit of extra room for my other necessities!
I hope this tutorial was super helpful! Thank you for being here!
Today is my birthday so I thought I would share a tutorial with you! I have been making and wearing these non slip headbands for years and I love them as much now as I did when I first started making them!!! I have always struggled to keep headbands on my head but these stay put and do you want to know the secret…velvet!!! These are backed with velvet ribbon and it just grips your hair so it doesn’t slide around. As an added bonus, the velvet absorbs sweat while you are working out and then you can just throw them in the washing machine!
I will quit boring you now and just show you how to make them!
*I am going to show you how to make them with fabric but you can also make it super easy and just use ribbon!!! No need for interfacing if you use 7/8″ ribbon!!!
You will need:
1 piece of knit fabric 1.75″ x 16″ plus interfacing the same size
1 piece of 7/8″ velvet ribbon-16″ long
1 6″ piece of elastic
not required but it does make life easier-wash away hem tape
Press the interfacing onto your knit fabric.
Fold the fabric in half and finger press to create a crease. Open it back up and you will fold each side into the center. *This is where I use the hem tape to hold it in place for sewing
Now your fabric should be the same width as your velvet ribbon!
Lay your velvet ribbon facing up and fabric facing down, then sandwich your elastic in between at one end. Stitch the end with a 1/4″ seam allowance.
Flip the pieces so they are wrong sides together. Topstitch, starting on the short end and down one long side but stop an inch or 2 from the bottom.
Now you will topstitch up the opposite side. Start at the end without the elastic but up an inch or two from the end. Stitch all the way up that side and back over the short end, making sure to backstitch.
Take your open end and fold both pieces in about 1/2″. Tuck the other end of your elastic in between the velvet and fabric.
Start topstitching where you ended before and end on the opposite side where you had started…make sure you backstitch at the beginning and end! I like to go over the elastic a couple times just to make sure it doesn’t wiggle loose. Trim your threads and you are finished!
How cute is this headband using up scraps of fabric from making a hoodie!!! I hope you enjoyed this easy, scrap busting project!
I used the Composition book cover pattern from Spencer Ogg and it is a really great pattern but I thought it would be handy to have a zipper pocket on the front to hold my pens, so I hacked the pattern a bit and this is what I came up with! I will show you here how I did it.
The first thing you need to do is buy the pattern https://www.spencerogg.com/product/composition-notebook-cover-sewing-pattern/. I will not give any dimensions for the original pattern pieces because those are someone else’s hard work. For the pocket add on you will need a zipper at least 10″ long and scrap pieces of fabric. I also like to use wash away hem tape to hold my pocket in place for sewing!
*Cut out all pieces according to the pattern.
Additionally you will cut:
4 pieces that are 2.5″ x the length of the main piece plus interfacing for all 4
2 pieces that are 2″ x length of main piece-no interfacing for these
4 zipper tabs 1.5″ x 2″-no interfacing
*Work from the pattern tutorial until you have the outside and lining pieces prepared (edges hemmed, etc)
Now we will start on the pocket! Attach your zipper tabs to one end. Lining piece facing up, zipper facing up and main facing down. Sew across the end then flip so right sides are out and topstitch. Trim your zipper end.
For the other zipper end, lay it on top of your main piece and mark where you should cut your tape. I attach the zipper tabs before I cut anything just in case I need to adjust it! Tip: I make a tiny snip in the zipper tape so I know where I want the tab. Sew it the same way you did the first one. Trim up both sides of your tabs.
Now you will lay one lining piece face up, zipper on top facing up, then the main piece face down. Stitch down the side (making sure all your edges stay lined up). Tip: a zipper foot is a great investment. Flip them out so that the pieces are wrong sides together and topstitch. Repeat with the other side.
Your pocket should be about 5″ right now, but that is a little too big and will hide all your pretty fabric on the front of your cover! We want to trim it down to 4″, so cut half an inch off of each side.
It’s time to make the binding to conceal the raw edges! Fold your 2″ strip in half and crease to find the center. Open it up and fold both sides into the center, then fold the entire piece in half. Easy peasy!
Slide a binding piece over the raw edges on each side and clip in place. You will topstitch only the open edge of the binding for now. Leave the outside edge un sewn.
Take your main piece that has already been hemmed and fold it in half to find the center. Make a small mark on the front side that is 2″ over from the center mark. This is your pocket placement mark!
I like to use 1/4″ wash away hem tape on the edges of the wrong side of the pocket. Stick the pocket down with the left side lined up with the mark you just made. Start at the top and topstitch down the right side, across the bottom, back up the left side and across the top.
Trim up your ends and finish according to the pattern!!!
You might ask…”what is strike sewing?” The short answer is that it’s for promotion! In the custom fabric and hardware world, shop owners get samples (or strikes) in to make sure they like them before selling. After they approve them, they will send them to the strike team to sew up…the reason for this is people want to see what it will look like as an actual finished item. After we sew them up, it is our job to promote everywhere and to drum up as many orders as possible!
Now that we have that info out of the way…do you want to see my most recent strikes?
This is the Pixie crossbody from Spencer Ogg patterns! It is the cutest little bag with tons of storage.https://www.spencerogg.com/product-category/patterns/ The fabric I chose is hexi rainbow from Tula Pink and black chambray from So Sew English Fabrics…but the fabrics are not the strikes. This fabric was chosen so that I could feature this little lovely:
I mean, seriously, how gorgeous is that pull?!?! This one is in the current preorder at Zip-a-DeeDooDah Hardware https://zip-a-deedoodah-hardware.myshopify.com/collections/hardware. I wanted to make sure this pull was the focus on the bag but I also didn’t want it to be a boring solid bag. I feel like this fabric was the perfect choice! Part of being a strike seamstress is getting lots of pictures so you aren’t posting the exact same thing in every spot. Here are some of my other photos of this bag:
Zip-a-DeeDooDah Hardware has several pulls up for preorder, but they are also offering amazing zipper tapes! I was sent this beautiful floral to sew up and here is what I made with it…
This is the third round I have had the pleasure of sewing strikes for, plus I purchased some before that…they really are awesome products! Here are my previous round makes and in case you are wondering…retail has not happened for them yet, so you may want to join the Facebook group to keep in the loop!
I hope this has been entertaining and maybe even helps you to find hardware that you love or gives you the courage to apply to be a strike sewist! Happy Sewing! ~Christy~
*links may include affiliate links, which don’t cost you anything but give me a little incentive.
Today I will teach you how I make a basic zipper pouch. The great thing about this pattern is that you can easily adjust it to be any size you need. Here are the materials you need:
2 pieces main fabric 5″ h x 7″ w
2 pieces lining fabric 5″h x 7″ w
2 pieces fusible interfacing 5″ h x 7″ w
9″ or longer zipper
Start by fusing the interfacing to the outside fabric pieces only…you can interface the lining if you want to but for a simple pouch it really isn’t necessary. However, when you branch out to wristlets you will want interfacing to help hold pockets up.
Take one lining piece and lay it right side up on your table. Now lay the zipper on top of the lining with the teeth facing up. *I like to use a longer zipper so the pull hangs out the end because it makes sewing so much easier* Next place the main fabric right side down on top of the zipper. Using your zipper foot, sew through all 3 layers.
Flip both pieces so that they are wrong sides together and topstitch very close to your zipper.
Repeat with the remaining 2 pieces of fabric!
Push your zipper pull in, so that you don’t cut it off! Stitch over the open zipper end~ this isn’t a required step but it will make your life easier! Switch back to your regular sewing foot, you are finished with the zipper foot now.
Open your zipper most of the way, just keep it in farther than your seam allowance.
Match up your outside pieces so they are right sides together, then repeat with the lining pieces. It should look like this:
Fold your zipper tape in half towards the outside fabric and clip in place. Then clip all the way around the outside.
Start on the lining side at one corner and sew all the way around, only leaving a small hole in the lining to turn.
Trim off both zipper ends and clip all four corners.
Turn the pouch through the hole you left. Use a blunt object to poke all 4 corners out, making sure you don’t poke all the way through the fabric. Then carefully push the zipper corners out.
Fold the opening in and topstitch. Push the lining into the main and your zipper pouch is finished!!!
I hope this tutorial was helpful! After you get comfortable with the basic pouch it is so easy to adjust it for wristlets, cosmetic bags and so much more!
Do you struggle to get your neckbands to come out perfectly? I am going to show you how I do mine and share some tips along the way. Some fabrics are definitely more difficult to work with, a tip for those is to serge or zig zag the edges before you start…this will help with the rolling! Neckbands can be done with a stretch stitch on a regular sewing machine too, but since I have a serger I will be using it!
TIP: not all fabric has the same amount of stretch, so I always calculate my neckband instead of relying completely on the pattern piece. I measure the neck opening and multiply by 80%-90%, depending on the stretch percentage of the fabric. Typically higher stretch fabrics are fine with the neckband piece included with the pattern and I usually only calculate when I am using a lower stretch fabric. Does this make sense?
Let’s get started!!! Take your neckband piece and match up the ends right sides together, stitch. You will then have a circle.
Next, start at your seam and fold the neckband in half (closing your seam inside), place a clip or pin there. Then you will find the front center and mark there. Match up those 2 marks so that you can find the 2 center points between the front and back. You have now quartered your neckband!
Tip: I find it easier if you leave your top inside out to attach the neckband.
Now you will quarter your bodice. Fold the top in half to find the back and front center points, mark those spots. Open the bodice back up, pull the front clip up to meet the back clip to find the other 2 quarter marks. Notice that the shoulder seams are not the quarter points.
Match the neckband seam up with your back center clip, then match up the other 3 spots.
You want to stretch the band evenly between the quarter marks and clip in between. You should NEVER have to stretch the bodice at all, only the band should be stretched a little.
Tip: When sewing, I like to start at the back seam because the start/stop is almost always where my mistakes happen, and they will be hidden in the back! I also like to sew with the bodice up and the neckband closest to the sewing machine/serger plate. I feel like I have the best control that way…but you have to do whatever makes your life easiest!
Starting at the back, sew all the way around your neckband making sure to go slowly and stretch evenly. Only remove your clips when you get to them. The small sections make it easier to stretch evenly!
You can topstitch if you feel the need to…I’m a pretty lazy sewist, so I usually do not!!! Turn your shirt right sides out and admire your perfect neckband!
This tutorial is the way I like to make key fobs! It is most definitely not the only way, but people seem to like them so I just keep making them! Please feel free to share this tutorial with your friends…I really appreciate the visitors here!
These are such a quick sew and make the cutest gift…especially when you give it with a car trash bag! If you haven’t made a trash bag yet, check out that blog post! Here are the items you need:
5″ x 10″-12″ fabric (length is personal preference)
interfacing the same size as your fabric
1.25″ key fob hardware
Start by ironing your interfacing onto your fabric.
Fold the fabric in half and press to make a crease down the center. Open it back up and fold each side into the center.
Fold the entire thing in half, making sure to line up the edges. Topstitch down the open side first then the closed side.
Now it’s time to attach the hardware! Start by trimming each end, remove any interfacing peeking out and straighten it up.
Fold it in half~I like to use a clip to hold it while I work!