I know that I am usually here talking about bags but I just had to show you all this make! This skirt is the newest release from Sonia Estep Designs, Jessica (aff) https://soniaestepdesigns.com/products/jessica?aff=8! The beauty of this pattern, however, is that it has options…crossover skirt or dress, asymmetrical hem skirt or dress, crop top, plus dress it up or down with fabric choices!!! It is so good and ridiculously easy to sew! This adorable Jack fabric is in round 110 at Oh So Pretty Custom Fabrics https://ohsoprettycustomfabric.com/ and as soon as I received it, I knew it wanted to become a Jessica. My only issue was that I only had a yard and that is not enough if your fabric is directional. The dilemma…do I make the not crossover option or do I stick with my original crossover plan but use a coordinate to make it work??? I opted for the 2nd option and do not regret my decision!
This pattern is a bodycon dress, and I have made that option, but I wanted people to realize that it is also perfect for casual wear! I used cotton spandex (I’m basically wearing pj’s) and paired it with a Summer tank (also from Sonia Estep Designs). You probably noticed that the tank is the same pink I used on the skirt! Something awesome about this fabric…Oh So Pretty stocks the solids in retail!!! They ship super fast, tons of colors available AND they are around 70″ wide…this is huge, my friends! I made this entire outfit out of 1 yard of pink and 1 yard of Jack PLUS I still have scraps big enough for a bag or color blocking another top!!!
Sonia Estep Designs is, by far, my favorite pattern company ever! They are all so well drafted and tested…even before they get to the testers! The fit is spot on every time and the instructions are easy to follow! Oh So Pretty Custom Fabric has become my favorite for fabric! They offer a huge variety of bases during preorders and carry a lot of retail, including solids, vinyl and tons of custom print options! I highly recommend you check both of these fabulous shops out…you won’t regret it!
*some links in this post may be affiliate links, and I receive a small commission. I appreciate your support!
This is a self-drafted pouch I made yesterday! My creative juices are drained so this cutie does not have a name yet!!! Side note: if you have a name suggestion, leave it in the comments! But it was too cute to not show you!
All Seam allowances are 1/4″. All measurements are listed as height x width.
At the end of this tutorial, I will show you an option for adding an id window to the back and also for making one in vinyl. There aren’t too many changes but some!
Here’s what you will need:
4 pieces (2 main, 2 lining)- 4″ x 5″
1 piece (pocket)- 6″ x 5″
2 pieces (snap tap)- 3.75″ x 2.5″ Round bottom edge if you’d like.
1 piece (back accent)- 1.5″ x 5″
1 piece (connector)- 2″ x 2″
1/2″ swivel clip or connecting hardware of choice
#3 zipper tape-at least 6″ but I prefer longer and cut down later
#3 zipper pull
Spring snaps/setting tools
Step 1- Making your snap tab.
Place your 2 tab pieces right sides together and stitch around the sides and bottom, leaving the top open. Trim your seam allowance down and turn right sides out. Topstitch.
Next we will mark the center of the tab and make a mark 1/2″ up from the bottom center. Make a hole for your snap. TIP: if you are using fabric, you will want stabilizer behind your snap. I use Peltex, then just slide a small piece in between the layers.
At this time, I also mark the snap on my pocket, so I can just set both at the same time. Pay attention to this part! Take your pocket piece, fold in half(it will be sewn along the bottom) and crease. Find the center along that crease and make a mark 1″ down. Only make a hole through the front side of your pocket, do not go through both layers. That said, I made one through both layers and it was fine, so if it happens DO NOT scrap it! Again, for fabric, you will need a stabilizer behind the snap. Set the snaps on the tab and pocket. Set your pocket aside for a minute!
Step 2– Attaching the tab to your pack piece.
Take your back main piece and find the center. Make a mark 1″ down…you can draw a line all the way across if that makes it easier (it will be hidden). Match the center of your tab to the center of the back at the 1″ mark you just made. Both back piece and snap tab should be right side up. TIP: I like to use a little dst to hold it in place.
Now you will take the back accent piece, draw a line down the center and fold each long edge in to that center line. I use a strip of dst down the center to hold it. If your machine doesn’t like tape, just give it a good press! Use dst or pins for the next part. Lay the strip you just made over the raw edge of your tab and topstitch.
Step 3- Making the front pocket
Take your pocket piece, fold in half and sew the bottom edge only. Turn right side out and topstitch the top edge only. Place the pocket on the front exterior piece (approx. 3/4″ up from the bottom). Baste both sides in place and topstitch along the bottom.
Step 4- Adding the zipper
Add the #3 zipper pull to the zipper tape. TIP: I like to have my tape longer than my project so I can keep the zipper pull out of the way. Lay one lining piece on your table right side up. Put the zipper tape along the top edge with coils facing up and pull to the left. Lay the back exterior piece(with the snap tap) on top, face down. Sew along the top edge. Press the exterior and main pieces back and topstitch. Sidenote: On this one, I pushed the snap tab out of the way to topstitch. It was not easy, so my 2nd one I topstitched the tab down…I highly suggest going this route!!! Repeat all steps with the opposite side.
Step 5- Making your connector
Take your connector piece and draw a line down the center, Fold both edges in to that line, then fold the entire thing in half to enclose the raw edges. TIP: this method works best with woven. If you are using cotton spandex or vinyl, use the method I show below on the vinyl instructions. Topstitch. Add your swivel clip.
Lay your main piece on the table. OPEN YOUR ZIPPER NOW!!! Baste your connector in place along the side with the open part of the zipper.
Step 6-Finishing it up
Fold your zipper tape in half, with the edges of the tape pushed towards the exterior pieces. Clip both exterior pieces right sides together. Then go to the lining, and fold the bottom edges on both lining pieces up 1/4″ to the wrong side. Clip the sides. The lining will remain open to turn the pouch through. Start at one side of the lining, sew up, around the exterior and back down the other lining side. Make sure to backstitch at the beginning and end.
Trim off your zipper ends and clip your corners. Carefully pull the entire pouch through the opening. Push out all corners. Topstitch the lining closed and push it down inside!!! Seriously, how cute is that?!!!
Continue here for vinyl instructions!!!
When using vinyl, the main measurements will be the same as above. I like to do my snap tab and pocket differently (personal preference), feel free to make them however you feel most comfortable! In this one, I also show you how to add an ID window. You can easily add this window onto your fabric version!
Here are the additional pieces you need: If you use these pieces, you do not need the following pieces from above: pocket, snap tab, back accent or connector.
1 pc (pocket main)-2.5″ x 5″
1 pc (pocket coordinate)- 3.5″ x 5″
2 pieces (snap tab)- 3.75″ x 2″
1 piece (back accent)- 3/4″ x 5″
2 pieces coordinating vinyl (id window accents)- 1″ x 5″
1 piece clear vinyl- 2.75″ x 5″
1 piece (connector)- 1″ x 3″
The main construction will be the same, we just want to make a few minor modifications to reduce a little of the bulk that comes with vinyl!
The snap tab for vinyl is smaller because we will just be placing them wrong sides together and topstitching. No turning!!! TIP: I like to keep one of my pieces square, then I trim it up after I sew them together. This gives me a little extra wiggle room for mistakes!
To create the front pocket: add your spring snap to the main pocket piece. 1″ down from the center. I forgot to do this step until after I had the coordinating piece sewn on…the snap on this one goes through both pieces, and it is completely fine! Don’t get the seam ripper out if you do this same thing! Take your coordinate piece and draw a line 1/2″ from the top and bottom. Use dst to secure the main to the center of this piece. Fold both edges of the coordinating vinyl to the front. Topstitch along both raw edges. Attach pocket to the front piece according to instructions above.
To create the back panel: We will center our snap tab, 1″ down just like above. The difference is the accent piece that covers it. This piece does not get folded at all. If we fold this one plus the vinyl from the id window, it will be way too thick there. Just cover the raw edge of your snap tab and topstitch it in place.
To create the ID window: Take your 2 accent pieces and draw a line down the center. Dst is especially handy for this step, but it can be done without…just go slow and use clips! Lay your clear vinyl just below the line you drew on one of your accent pieces and fold the top over to the front, enclosing the top edge of the clear vinyl. Repeat with the opposite edge. Topstitch both raw edges and the top edge only. Lay the ID window over top of the snap tab accent strip. Baste both sides and topstitch the bottom edge.
To create the connector from vinyl (or an interfaced knit): Draw a line down the center of the long edge (1/2″ in), fold both edges in to the center and topstitch. When you baste this one in place, don’t attach it folded in half…this creates a lot of extra bulk. If you make a “V” with it, you will easily be able to sew it!
Finish the rest according to the tutorial above!!!
I hope this all makes sense and you have fun sewing it!!! Thanks for joining me!
The tutorial for Binder Buddy is finished and published to my YouTube channel!!! This is a scary but exciting journey, and I hope you all love it! This is a very beginner friendly pattern, however, it is made with vinyl or cork because the edges are exposed. Don’t be afraid, my testers all used a domestic machine!!!
***A quick tip before we start. I suggest using a woven fabric. I tried with a cotton spandex and it was too thick in spots.***
You will need:
swivel hook-I like the ones attached to a split key ring or 1/2″ swivel clips
for non directional fabric: 1 piece 7″w x 9.5″-10″h (you really can make them any height) plus interfacing
for directional fabric: 2 pieces 7″w x 5″h plus interfacing
1 piece 2″ x 3″ NO INTERFACING
Start by ironing your interfacing on each piece.
*If you are using non directional fabric, hold tight for just a minute!
Take your two pieces of directional fabric and place right sides together. Make sure both pieces are facing the same direction and stitch the bottom only.
After you have sewn them together, fold it in half to find the center. Make a mark. Snip close to your seam but not through. Trim your seam allowance to reduce bulk.
Open the entire thing up. Press your seam down, pushing each side a different direction-this will allow you to nest your seam to reduce bulk.
*Directional or non directional fabric options continue here:
Tip: wash away hem tape helps so much!
Fold the top and bottom edges down about 1/4″ (this is where I use the hem tape).
Fold it in half to find the center. I marked it just so you can see, it’s not necessary! Open it up then fold each side in to meet the center crease you just made. Then fold in half to hide the raw edges.
***If you are doing directional fabric, this is where you want to nest your seam
Topstitch one short end…this will be the top of the pocket, so pick the pretty side! Set aside for a minute.
To make the tab for the top: 3″ is your length and finished width will be 1/2″. Fold the fabric the same way you did the main piece to hide the raw edges. ***You do not need to fold the ends over though because they will be hidden*** Topstitch the open side.
Loop this piece through your swivel clip and set aside for a minute.
Back to the main piece! Fold the end that you topstitched up, so that it is an inch(ish) from the top of the unsewn end. and clip in place. Now tuck the swivel clip into the top edge.
Start sewing at the bottom on the open side. Stitch all three sides, making sure to backstitch at the beginning/end but also at the top (both sides) of the pocket. Trim your threads and you are finished!!!
These little cuties are perfect for lip balms but also for your essential oil rollerballs!!!
I hope you love these and find this tutorial helpful! Please feel free to use this pattern for personal or small business use, but please keep in mind that this was a lot of trial and error…and wasted fabric! LOL I would appreciate if you would link your friends back to this tutorial. Thank you all!
Today is my birthday so I thought I would share a tutorial with you! I have been making and wearing these non slip headbands for years and I love them as much now as I did when I first started making them!!! I have always struggled to keep headbands on my head but these stay put and do you want to know the secret…velvet!!! These are backed with velvet ribbon and it just grips your hair so it doesn’t slide around. As an added bonus, the velvet absorbs sweat while you are working out and then you can just throw them in the washing machine!
I will quit boring you now and just show you how to make them!
*I am going to show you how to make them with fabric but you can also make it super easy and just use ribbon!!! No need for interfacing if you use 7/8″ ribbon!!!
You will need:
1 piece of knit fabric 1.75″ x 16″ plus interfacing the same size
1 piece of 7/8″ velvet ribbon-16″ long
1 6″ piece of elastic
not required but it does make life easier-wash away hem tape
Press the interfacing onto your knit fabric.
Fold the fabric in half and finger press to create a crease. Open it back up and you will fold each side into the center. *This is where I use the hem tape to hold it in place for sewing
Now your fabric should be the same width as your velvet ribbon!
Lay your velvet ribbon facing up and fabric facing down, then sandwich your elastic in between at one end. Stitch the end with a 1/4″ seam allowance.
Flip the pieces so they are wrong sides together. Topstitch, starting on the short end and down one long side but stop an inch or 2 from the bottom.
Now you will topstitch up the opposite side. Start at the end without the elastic but up an inch or two from the end. Stitch all the way up that side and back over the short end, making sure to backstitch.
Take your open end and fold both pieces in about 1/2″. Tuck the other end of your elastic in between the velvet and fabric.
Start topstitching where you ended before and end on the opposite side where you had started…make sure you backstitch at the beginning and end! I like to go over the elastic a couple times just to make sure it doesn’t wiggle loose. Trim your threads and you are finished!
How cute is this headband using up scraps of fabric from making a hoodie!!! I hope you enjoyed this easy, scrap busting project!
Sonia Estep Designs Hannah was already perfect as a quarter zip hoodie! Then Sonia gave us the neckband option for the perfect basic top that is super quick to sew! Then there was a kids version for the mommy and me outfits! But this week she really outdid herself with the hood add on…for women and kids!!!!
The new add on is separate from the original pattern, so if you don’t already own Hannah you will need to purchase it. But not to worry, because there is a sitewide sale and all patterns are 40% off! Well, except for the hood add on..it is 50% off or you can get it free with purchase using a code in the Facebook group!!! The add on includes a standard hood and a crossover hood.
First, I will show you the Hannah’s I made for my son. This is the standard hood version using a triblend french terry.
The next two are the crossover hood. He was so excited to have new hoodies (mom has really dropped the ball lately)!!! He told me ~and I quote~ “This is amazing…I have so many hoodies with pockets now!” LOL
Now for mine! I LOVE the crossover hood, so I have not made myself a standard version yet. My first one is using a coral quilted knit from Surge Fabric Shop https://surgefabricshop.com/.
My last one is lighter weight and may possibly be my favorite…I think…but just by a tiny margin! They really are all so good!!! Oakley sweater knit from So Sew English Fabrics is my favorite fabric ever and how cute are the gnomes and dots?!!! Oakley is ridiculously soft sweater knit, but it’s also breathable without being too thin! https://sosewenglishfabrics.com/
I hope you love all of these but mostly I hope you make your own and love them just as much! Here is my Sonia Estep Designs affiliate link if you would like to help me out. Affiliate links don’t cost you anything extra, but I do receive a small commission anytime someone clicks through it…which just helps me buy more fabric!http://sonia-estep-designs.myshopify.com?aff=8
Do you just love being snuggled up in a cozy blanket? That is exactly the feeling you get with the newest release from Sonia Estep Designs!!! Danielle is a cocoon style cardigan that is flattering on everyone! It is a very quick sew and takes less than 2 yards of fabric! I’m serious about it being quick…I can make it in about half an hour-cut to finish!!! You choose your size based on either your upper bust or hips (whichever is larger) and it has plenty of wiggle room! So what this all means is that it’s perfect for gift-giving! I mean, who wouldn’t want to get one of these for Christmas?!!!
Now, in case you didn’t notice, the title of this blog post also mentions a sale!!! Sonia Estep Designs is starting Black Friday early, so all of the other patterns are 40% off! Danielle is 50% off for the release. But let’s say you want Danielle and want to take advantage of the 40% off of other patterns too…You can get Danielle for free!!! Yes, I did say free. If you join the SED Facebook group and look in the announcement post, there is a code only for group members!
And since all of the patterns are on sale, I should tell you about the rest of my outfit. All of the fabric I used came from Surge Fabric Shop https://surgefabricshop.com/. My Danielle is in a coral/white marled hacci sweater knit and it is dreamy! I NEEDED a new top to wear underneath so I pulled out a charcoal french terry and whipped up a basic Mandy! Then for the pants…pants are hard to get a good fit, so once you find one you stick with it!!! I used the Iris shorts pattern because I love the fit on my thighs and backside! LOL. I used another pants pattern to determine the length I liked and lengthened my shorts, tapering in to the ankle. I made these in a knit denim so it looks like real pants but feels like pajamas!!!
Head to Sonia Estep Designs and take advantage of this very generous sale…trust me, you need all of the patterns!!! http://sonia-estep-designs.myshopify.com?aff=8 . This is my affiliate link, which does not cost you anything extra but it does give me a small commission that helps me to support my love of fabric! Thank you for being here and supporting my sewing journey!
I used the Composition book cover pattern from Spencer Ogg and it is a really great pattern but I thought it would be handy to have a zipper pocket on the front to hold my pens, so I hacked the pattern a bit and this is what I came up with! I will show you here how I did it.
The first thing you need to do is buy the pattern https://www.spencerogg.com/product/composition-notebook-cover-sewing-pattern/. I will not give any dimensions for the original pattern pieces because those are someone else’s hard work. For the pocket add on you will need a zipper at least 10″ long and scrap pieces of fabric. I also like to use wash away hem tape to hold my pocket in place for sewing!
*Cut out all pieces according to the pattern.
Additionally you will cut:
4 pieces that are 2.5″ x the length of the main piece plus interfacing for all 4
2 pieces that are 2″ x length of main piece-no interfacing for these
4 zipper tabs 1.5″ x 2″-no interfacing
*Work from the pattern tutorial until you have the outside and lining pieces prepared (edges hemmed, etc)
Now we will start on the pocket! Attach your zipper tabs to one end. Lining piece facing up, zipper facing up and main facing down. Sew across the end then flip so right sides are out and topstitch. Trim your zipper end.
For the other zipper end, lay it on top of your main piece and mark where you should cut your tape. I attach the zipper tabs before I cut anything just in case I need to adjust it! Tip: I make a tiny snip in the zipper tape so I know where I want the tab. Sew it the same way you did the first one. Trim up both sides of your tabs.
Now you will lay one lining piece face up, zipper on top facing up, then the main piece face down. Stitch down the side (making sure all your edges stay lined up). Tip: a zipper foot is a great investment. Flip them out so that the pieces are wrong sides together and topstitch. Repeat with the other side.
Your pocket should be about 5″ right now, but that is a little too big and will hide all your pretty fabric on the front of your cover! We want to trim it down to 4″, so cut half an inch off of each side.
It’s time to make the binding to conceal the raw edges! Fold your 2″ strip in half and crease to find the center. Open it up and fold both sides into the center, then fold the entire piece in half. Easy peasy!
Slide a binding piece over the raw edges on each side and clip in place. You will topstitch only the open edge of the binding for now. Leave the outside edge un sewn.
Take your main piece that has already been hemmed and fold it in half to find the center. Make a small mark on the front side that is 2″ over from the center mark. This is your pocket placement mark!
I like to use 1/4″ wash away hem tape on the edges of the wrong side of the pocket. Stick the pocket down with the left side lined up with the mark you just made. Start at the top and topstitch down the right side, across the bottom, back up the left side and across the top.
Trim up your ends and finish according to the pattern!!!
You might ask…”what is strike sewing?” The short answer is that it’s for promotion! In the custom fabric and hardware world, shop owners get samples (or strikes) in to make sure they like them before selling. After they approve them, they will send them to the strike team to sew up…the reason for this is people want to see what it will look like as an actual finished item. After we sew them up, it is our job to promote everywhere and to drum up as many orders as possible!
Now that we have that info out of the way…do you want to see my most recent strikes?
This is the Pixie crossbody from Spencer Ogg patterns! It is the cutest little bag with tons of storage.https://www.spencerogg.com/product-category/patterns/ The fabric I chose is hexi rainbow from Tula Pink and black chambray from So Sew English Fabrics…but the fabrics are not the strikes. This fabric was chosen so that I could feature this little lovely:
I mean, seriously, how gorgeous is that pull?!?! This one is in the current preorder at Zip-a-DeeDooDah Hardware https://zip-a-deedoodah-hardware.myshopify.com/collections/hardware. I wanted to make sure this pull was the focus on the bag but I also didn’t want it to be a boring solid bag. I feel like this fabric was the perfect choice! Part of being a strike seamstress is getting lots of pictures so you aren’t posting the exact same thing in every spot. Here are some of my other photos of this bag:
Zip-a-DeeDooDah Hardware has several pulls up for preorder, but they are also offering amazing zipper tapes! I was sent this beautiful floral to sew up and here is what I made with it…
This is the third round I have had the pleasure of sewing strikes for, plus I purchased some before that…they really are awesome products! Here are my previous round makes and in case you are wondering…retail has not happened for them yet, so you may want to join the Facebook group to keep in the loop!
I hope this has been entertaining and maybe even helps you to find hardware that you love or gives you the courage to apply to be a strike sewist! Happy Sewing! ~Christy~
*links may include affiliate links, which don’t cost you anything but give me a little incentive.
I love a raglan top because you can use up those odd cuts you have hanging around for a fun and colorful shirt or you can make it solid for a cute basic tee! The problem I have with them is that I have tried out so many and none were perfect. They were always too relaxed, not relaxed enough, the neckline was too wide, too high, too low, the hem wasn’t to my liking, the length wasn’t right, the sleeves were too tight…and the list goes on and on! So when I tested the Rio raglan from So Sew English, I was fully prepared to make adjustments after my first tester version. But to my surprise, the only adjustment I had to do was grading out one size for my hips (which I always have to do anyway, no matter the pattern)!!! This pattern has all the options you would need~ crop, tee and tunic length~ v neck or crewneck~ short, 3/4 and long sleeves
For the pattern test I was assigned tunic length, short sleeve, crew neck version. I made a size xl graded to 1x hips but no other adjustments whatsoever, not even for height. I used a gray and white striped french terry for the bodice and raided my scrap bin for the sleeves!!! I didn’t think I would like the tunic length and planned to cut it down to tee length after testing…but I kind of love it and am going to keep it long!
My second one was tee length, crew neck with 3/4 sleeves made in the buffalo plaid dbp for the bodice and black/white stripe dbp sleeves…I am in love with this one and have had several people try to steal it already!!!!
And my newest one was supposed to have different options BUT I loved the plaid one so much that I wanted more with those same options! So I pulled out the coral striped dbp for the bodice and sewing machine dbp for the sleeves…I am in love with this one too!