This is a self-drafted pouch I made yesterday! My creative juices are drained so this cutie does not have a name yet!!! Side note: if you have a name suggestion, leave it in the comments! But it was too cute to not show you!
All Seam allowances are 1/4″. All measurements are listed as height x width.
At the end of this tutorial, I will show you an option for adding an id window to the back and also for making one in vinyl. There aren’t too many changes but some!
Here’s what you will need:
- 4 pieces (2 main, 2 lining)- 4″ x 5″
- 1 piece (pocket)- 6″ x 5″
- 2 pieces (snap tap)- 3.75″ x 2.5″ Round bottom edge if you’d like.
- 1 piece (back accent)- 1.5″ x 5″
- 1 piece (connector)- 2″ x 2″
- 1/2″ swivel clip or connecting hardware of choice
- #3 zipper tape-at least 6″ but I prefer longer and cut down later
- #3 zipper pull
- Spring snaps/setting tools
Step 1- Making your snap tab.
Place your 2 tab pieces right sides together and stitch around the sides and bottom, leaving the top open. Trim your seam allowance down and turn right sides out. Topstitch.
Next we will mark the center of the tab and make a mark 1/2″ up from the bottom center. Make a hole for your snap. TIP: if you are using fabric, you will want stabilizer behind your snap. I use Peltex, then just slide a small piece in between the layers.
At this time, I also mark the snap on my pocket, so I can just set both at the same time. Pay attention to this part! Take your pocket piece, fold in half(it will be sewn along the bottom) and crease. Find the center along that crease and make a mark 1″ down. Only make a hole through the front side of your pocket, do not go through both layers. That said, I made one through both layers and it was fine, so if it happens DO NOT scrap it! Again, for fabric, you will need a stabilizer behind the snap. Set the snaps on the tab and pocket. Set your pocket aside for a minute!
Step 2– Attaching the tab to your pack piece.
Take your back main piece and find the center. Make a mark 1″ down…you can draw a line all the way across if that makes it easier (it will be hidden). Match the center of your tab to the center of the back at the 1″ mark you just made. Both back piece and snap tab should be right side up. TIP: I like to use a little dst to hold it in place.
Now you will take the back accent piece, draw a line down the center and fold each long edge in to that center line. I use a strip of dst down the center to hold it. If your machine doesn’t like tape, just give it a good press! Use dst or pins for the next part. Lay the strip you just made over the raw edge of your tab and topstitch.
Step 3- Making the front pocket
Take your pocket piece, fold in half and sew the bottom edge only. Turn right side out and topstitch the top edge only. Place the pocket on the front exterior piece (approx. 3/4″ up from the bottom). Baste both sides in place and topstitch along the bottom.
Step 4- Adding the zipper
Add the #3 zipper pull to the zipper tape. TIP: I like to have my tape longer than my project so I can keep the zipper pull out of the way. Lay one lining piece on your table right side up. Put the zipper tape along the top edge with coils facing up and pull to the left. Lay the back exterior piece(with the snap tap) on top, face down. Sew along the top edge. Press the exterior and main pieces back and topstitch. Sidenote: On this one, I pushed the snap tab out of the way to topstitch. It was not easy, so my 2nd one I topstitched the tab down…I highly suggest going this route!!! Repeat all steps with the opposite side.
Step 5- Making your connector
Take your connector piece and draw a line down the center, Fold both edges in to that line, then fold the entire thing in half to enclose the raw edges. TIP: this method works best with woven. If you are using cotton spandex or vinyl, use the method I show below on the vinyl instructions. Topstitch. Add your swivel clip.
Lay your main piece on the table. OPEN YOUR ZIPPER NOW!!! Baste your connector in place along the side with the open part of the zipper.
Step 6-Finishing it up
Fold your zipper tape in half, with the edges of the tape pushed towards the exterior pieces. Clip both exterior pieces right sides together. Then go to the lining, and fold the bottom edges on both lining pieces up 1/4″ to the wrong side. Clip the sides. The lining will remain open to turn the pouch through. Start at one side of the lining, sew up, around the exterior and back down the other lining side. Make sure to backstitch at the beginning and end.
Trim off your zipper ends and clip your corners. Carefully pull the entire pouch through the opening. Push out all corners. Topstitch the lining closed and push it down inside!!! Seriously, how cute is that?!!!
Continue here for vinyl instructions!!!
When using vinyl, the main measurements will be the same as above. I like to do my snap tab and pocket differently (personal preference), feel free to make them however you feel most comfortable! In this one, I also show you how to add an ID window. You can easily add this window onto your fabric version!
Here are the additional pieces you need: If you use these pieces, you do not need the following pieces from above: pocket, snap tab, back accent or connector.
- 1 pc (pocket main)-2.5″ x 5″
- 1 pc (pocket coordinate)- 3.5″ x 5″
- 2 pieces (snap tab)- 3.75″ x 2″
- 1 piece (back accent)- 3/4″ x 5″
- 2 pieces coordinating vinyl (id window accents)- 1″ x 5″
- 1 piece clear vinyl- 2.75″ x 5″
- 1 piece (connector)- 1″ x 3″
The main construction will be the same, we just want to make a few minor modifications to reduce a little of the bulk that comes with vinyl!
The snap tab for vinyl is smaller because we will just be placing them wrong sides together and topstitching. No turning!!! TIP: I like to keep one of my pieces square, then I trim it up after I sew them together. This gives me a little extra wiggle room for mistakes!
To create the front pocket: add your spring snap to the main pocket piece. 1″ down from the center. I forgot to do this step until after I had the coordinating piece sewn on…the snap on this one goes through both pieces, and it is completely fine! Don’t get the seam ripper out if you do this same thing! Take your coordinate piece and draw a line 1/2″ from the top and bottom. Use dst to secure the main to the center of this piece. Fold both edges of the coordinating vinyl to the front. Topstitch along both raw edges. Attach pocket to the front piece according to instructions above.
To create the back panel: We will center our snap tab, 1″ down just like above. The difference is the accent piece that covers it. This piece does not get folded at all. If we fold this one plus the vinyl from the id window, it will be way too thick there. Just cover the raw edge of your snap tab and topstitch it in place.
To create the ID window: Take your 2 accent pieces and draw a line down the center. Dst is especially handy for this step, but it can be done without…just go slow and use clips! Lay your clear vinyl just below the line you drew on one of your accent pieces and fold the top over to the front, enclosing the top edge of the clear vinyl. Repeat with the opposite edge. Topstitch both raw edges and the top edge only. Lay the ID window over top of the snap tab accent strip. Baste both sides and topstitch the bottom edge.
To create the connector from vinyl (or an interfaced knit): Draw a line down the center of the long edge (1/2″ in), fold both edges in to the center and topstitch. When you baste this one in place, don’t attach it folded in half…this creates a lot of extra bulk. If you make a “V” with it, you will easily be able to sew it!
Finish the rest according to the tutorial above!!!
I hope this all makes sense and you have fun sewing it!!! Thanks for joining me!