I know that I am usually here talking about bags but I just had to show you all this make! This skirt is the newest release from Sonia Estep Designs, Jessica (aff) https://soniaestepdesigns.com/products/jessica?aff=8! The beauty of this pattern, however, is that it has options…crossover skirt or dress, asymmetrical hem skirt or dress, crop top, plus dress it up or down with fabric choices!!! It is so good and ridiculously easy to sew! This adorable Jack fabric is in round 110 at Oh So Pretty Custom Fabrics https://ohsoprettycustomfabric.com/ and as soon as I received it, I knew it wanted to become a Jessica. My only issue was that I only had a yard and that is not enough if your fabric is directional. The dilemma…do I make the not crossover option or do I stick with my original crossover plan but use a coordinate to make it work??? I opted for the 2nd option and do not regret my decision!
This pattern is a bodycon dress, and I have made that option, but I wanted people to realize that it is also perfect for casual wear! I used cotton spandex (I’m basically wearing pj’s) and paired it with a Summer tank (also from Sonia Estep Designs). You probably noticed that the tank is the same pink I used on the skirt! Something awesome about this fabric…Oh So Pretty stocks the solids in retail!!! They ship super fast, tons of colors available AND they are around 70″ wide…this is huge, my friends! I made this entire outfit out of 1 yard of pink and 1 yard of Jack PLUS I still have scraps big enough for a bag or color blocking another top!!!
Sonia Estep Designs is, by far, my favorite pattern company ever! They are all so well drafted and tested…even before they get to the testers! The fit is spot on every time and the instructions are easy to follow! Oh So Pretty Custom Fabric has become my favorite for fabric! They offer a huge variety of bases during preorders and carry a lot of retail, including solids, vinyl and tons of custom print options! I highly recommend you check both of these fabulous shops out…you won’t regret it!
*some links in this post may be affiliate links, and I receive a small commission. I appreciate your support!
This is a self-drafted pouch I made yesterday! My creative juices are drained so this cutie does not have a name yet!!! Side note: if you have a name suggestion, leave it in the comments! But it was too cute to not show you!
All Seam allowances are 1/4″. All measurements are listed as height x width.
At the end of this tutorial, I will show you an option for adding an id window to the back and also for making one in vinyl. There aren’t too many changes but some!
Here’s what you will need:
4 pieces (2 main, 2 lining)- 4″ x 5″
1 piece (pocket)- 6″ x 5″
2 pieces (snap tap)- 3.75″ x 2.5″ Round bottom edge if you’d like.
1 piece (back accent)- 1.5″ x 5″
1 piece (connector)- 2″ x 2″
1/2″ swivel clip or connecting hardware of choice
#3 zipper tape-at least 6″ but I prefer longer and cut down later
#3 zipper pull
Spring snaps/setting tools
Step 1- Making your snap tab.
Place your 2 tab pieces right sides together and stitch around the sides and bottom, leaving the top open. Trim your seam allowance down and turn right sides out. Topstitch.
Next we will mark the center of the tab and make a mark 1/2″ up from the bottom center. Make a hole for your snap. TIP: if you are using fabric, you will want stabilizer behind your snap. I use Peltex, then just slide a small piece in between the layers.
At this time, I also mark the snap on my pocket, so I can just set both at the same time. Pay attention to this part! Take your pocket piece, fold in half(it will be sewn along the bottom) and crease. Find the center along that crease and make a mark 1″ down. Only make a hole through the front side of your pocket, do not go through both layers. That said, I made one through both layers and it was fine, so if it happens DO NOT scrap it! Again, for fabric, you will need a stabilizer behind the snap. Set the snaps on the tab and pocket. Set your pocket aside for a minute!
Step 2– Attaching the tab to your pack piece.
Take your back main piece and find the center. Make a mark 1″ down…you can draw a line all the way across if that makes it easier (it will be hidden). Match the center of your tab to the center of the back at the 1″ mark you just made. Both back piece and snap tab should be right side up. TIP: I like to use a little dst to hold it in place.
Now you will take the back accent piece, draw a line down the center and fold each long edge in to that center line. I use a strip of dst down the center to hold it. If your machine doesn’t like tape, just give it a good press! Use dst or pins for the next part. Lay the strip you just made over the raw edge of your tab and topstitch.
Step 3- Making the front pocket
Take your pocket piece, fold in half and sew the bottom edge only. Turn right side out and topstitch the top edge only. Place the pocket on the front exterior piece (approx. 3/4″ up from the bottom). Baste both sides in place and topstitch along the bottom.
Step 4- Adding the zipper
Add the #3 zipper pull to the zipper tape. TIP: I like to have my tape longer than my project so I can keep the zipper pull out of the way. Lay one lining piece on your table right side up. Put the zipper tape along the top edge with coils facing up and pull to the left. Lay the back exterior piece(with the snap tap) on top, face down. Sew along the top edge. Press the exterior and main pieces back and topstitch. Sidenote: On this one, I pushed the snap tab out of the way to topstitch. It was not easy, so my 2nd one I topstitched the tab down…I highly suggest going this route!!! Repeat all steps with the opposite side.
Step 5- Making your connector
Take your connector piece and draw a line down the center, Fold both edges in to that line, then fold the entire thing in half to enclose the raw edges. TIP: this method works best with woven. If you are using cotton spandex or vinyl, use the method I show below on the vinyl instructions. Topstitch. Add your swivel clip.
Lay your main piece on the table. OPEN YOUR ZIPPER NOW!!! Baste your connector in place along the side with the open part of the zipper.
Step 6-Finishing it up
Fold your zipper tape in half, with the edges of the tape pushed towards the exterior pieces. Clip both exterior pieces right sides together. Then go to the lining, and fold the bottom edges on both lining pieces up 1/4″ to the wrong side. Clip the sides. The lining will remain open to turn the pouch through. Start at one side of the lining, sew up, around the exterior and back down the other lining side. Make sure to backstitch at the beginning and end.
Trim off your zipper ends and clip your corners. Carefully pull the entire pouch through the opening. Push out all corners. Topstitch the lining closed and push it down inside!!! Seriously, how cute is that?!!!
Continue here for vinyl instructions!!!
When using vinyl, the main measurements will be the same as above. I like to do my snap tab and pocket differently (personal preference), feel free to make them however you feel most comfortable! In this one, I also show you how to add an ID window. You can easily add this window onto your fabric version!
Here are the additional pieces you need: If you use these pieces, you do not need the following pieces from above: pocket, snap tab, back accent or connector.
1 pc (pocket main)-2.5″ x 5″
1 pc (pocket coordinate)- 3.5″ x 5″
2 pieces (snap tab)- 3.75″ x 2″
1 piece (back accent)- 3/4″ x 5″
2 pieces coordinating vinyl (id window accents)- 1″ x 5″
1 piece clear vinyl- 2.75″ x 5″
1 piece (connector)- 1″ x 3″
The main construction will be the same, we just want to make a few minor modifications to reduce a little of the bulk that comes with vinyl!
The snap tab for vinyl is smaller because we will just be placing them wrong sides together and topstitching. No turning!!! TIP: I like to keep one of my pieces square, then I trim it up after I sew them together. This gives me a little extra wiggle room for mistakes!
To create the front pocket: add your spring snap to the main pocket piece. 1″ down from the center. I forgot to do this step until after I had the coordinating piece sewn on…the snap on this one goes through both pieces, and it is completely fine! Don’t get the seam ripper out if you do this same thing! Take your coordinate piece and draw a line 1/2″ from the top and bottom. Use dst to secure the main to the center of this piece. Fold both edges of the coordinating vinyl to the front. Topstitch along both raw edges. Attach pocket to the front piece according to instructions above.
To create the back panel: We will center our snap tab, 1″ down just like above. The difference is the accent piece that covers it. This piece does not get folded at all. If we fold this one plus the vinyl from the id window, it will be way too thick there. Just cover the raw edge of your snap tab and topstitch it in place.
To create the ID window: Take your 2 accent pieces and draw a line down the center. Dst is especially handy for this step, but it can be done without…just go slow and use clips! Lay your clear vinyl just below the line you drew on one of your accent pieces and fold the top over to the front, enclosing the top edge of the clear vinyl. Repeat with the opposite edge. Topstitch both raw edges and the top edge only. Lay the ID window over top of the snap tab accent strip. Baste both sides and topstitch the bottom edge.
To create the connector from vinyl (or an interfaced knit): Draw a line down the center of the long edge (1/2″ in), fold both edges in to the center and topstitch. When you baste this one in place, don’t attach it folded in half…this creates a lot of extra bulk. If you make a “V” with it, you will easily be able to sew it!
Finish the rest according to the tutorial above!!!
I hope this all makes sense and you have fun sewing it!!! Thanks for joining me!
I started making these adorable self-drafted crossbody bags and they were a big hit, so I decided I would write up a tutorial! A member of my Facebook group named it the Ginger crossbody, and I really loved it…in case you wondered where the name came from! This is a very simple sew with only rectangle pieces to cut! Let’s get started:
Ginger crossbody ￼￼ Woven, cotton spandex or vinyl I’m using a 1/4” seam allowance
Hardware/extras: 1-1” strap slide 2-1” swivel clips 2-1” strap connectors #5 zipper tape-10” #5 zipper pull 1-magnetic snap 60” of 1” webbing Small pieces of vinyl for the strap ends and zipper overlay. Double sided tape (dst)- 1/8”. I use 1/8” and 1/4” but that’s not necessary
Cut: *if using vinyl or waterproof canvas, you do not need interfacing. -4 pieces (2 main and 2 lining) 9” high x 12” wide, plus interfacing -2 pieces (1 main and 1 lining) 7” high x 10” wide. This is the flap and we will round the edges. -2 pieces 2” x 3” for strap connectors -2 pieces 10” x 6” for exterior zipper pocket -vinyl for overlay, 8” x 1.5” with a box cut out of the middle that is 7” x 1/2”. You can round or angle the ends if you want. -2 pieces 6.5” high x 12” wide for interior slip pocket -2 pieces 1” squares of vinyl for strap ends ￼ *I am using vinyl exterior with waterproof canvas lining, so I will not be using interfacing at all. You will need interfacing on any piece that is not vinyl or waterproof canvas, so add accordingly.
To make your own, you can use a template (which is what I do), or make your own! Your outside box should be 8” x 1.5”, then center a box inside that is 7” x 1/2”. Carefully cut that box out. ￼
Step 2- making the strap connectors. Take your two strap connector pieces and draw a line down the center of the long side. I use double sided tape for the next part but it’s not necessary. Fold both long edges in to the line you just drew. Topstitch as close to the center raw edges as possible. I like to do it with the wrong side up so I can see where I’m at. Add your strap connector hardware and set aside.
Step 3- Back zipper pocket Mark the center of your back exterior piece.
Add double sided tape to the back of your overlay. Place it, centered, 1.5” down from the top of the back piece.
Stitch around the outside only… do not stitch the inside box. You can backstitch if you choose to but pulling the threads to the back gives a nicer finish. Just pull to the back, knot and singe with a lighter.
Carefully cut the center of the zipper box out. It doesn’t have to look pretty, you just need to cut it back far enough that you can’t see the edges peeking out of the overlay.
Next take one of your zipper pocket lining pieces and your zipper tape. You can put your pull on now if you prefer. I like to add it later. Line the edge of the zipper tape up with the top edge of your lining piece. And edge stitch in place (approximately 1/8” from the edge)
Repeat with the other lining piece and the other edge of the zipper tape.
Separate one end of the zipper tape just a bit and slide your pull on.
Add 1/8” dst to both edges of your zipper tape.
Place the pocket lining you just created on your table. Zipper opening to the left and BOTH pieces of the lining pushed to the top. Remove just the bottom dst and lay your back panel over the zipper, make sure it’s centered.
Topstitch the BOTTOM ONLY of the zipper box. Pull your threads to the back, tie and singe.
Finger press both lining pieces down. Remove the dst from the top and press it in place. Adjust if needed.Then we will topstitch the three remaining sides of the zipper box. Again, pull your threads to the back and tie them off.
Now you will notice that the top piece is shorter, trim them to match.
Fold both bottom edges up 1/4-1/2” and clip in place.
Next we will sew up both sides of the pocket but not the bottom. Sew as close as you can to the zipper overlay. Backstitch at the top and bottom of both sides. After you sew, you want to trim very close to the seam at the bottom… this will cut the bulk in your corners. Trim up and burn the ends of your zipper.
Stop right now and open your zipper!!!
Step 4- making the flap. Take your exterior flap piece and round both bottom corners. I have this little colander that is the perfect size! I use my chalk to trace the curve and cut with my scissors. I leave the lining square so I have room to work.
Installing the magnetic snap depends on the snap you use. I’m using rivet snaps, mine won’t go in just yet. The two options are rivet snaps or snaps with prongs.
Find the center of your flap lining piece and make a mark 1.25” up from the bottom. If you are using prong snaps, you need to insert the male portion now… before you sew.
Place the two flap pieces right sides together and sew around the sides and bottom, leaving the top open. Then you will trim your seam allowance down to reduce bulk at the curves.
Turn right sides out and topstitch at 1/8”.
I’m using rivet snaps, so now is the time I will add mine, through all of the layers.
Next, everyone will add the female portion of the snap to the front piece. Make a mark, centered, 3.5” down from the top. Add your snap.
Step 5- cutting some corners! Cut a 1.25” square out of the bottom corners on all 4 of the main pieces. ￼￼
Step 6- creating the exterior. Place your two exterior pieces right sides together and sew the sides and bottom. ￼￼ To box the bottom corners, push them out so that the seams meet up. Sew along the straight edge. Be sure to backstitch or tie off your ends. ￼￼￼ Turn the exterior right side out. Place the flap on the back side, right sides together, matching up the center marks. Clip both strap connectors in place, centered over the side seams. Baste all of it in place. ￼￼￼ Set the exterior aside for now!
Step 7- interior slip pocket Take both pieces of the slip pocket and place right sides together. This is a great place to add a tag if you want to! Stitch only the top and bottom. ￼￼￼ Carefully turn it right sides out. I like to roll my top seam to the front a little, but it’s not necessary. The reason I do this is for visual interest and to cut down bulk at the bottom. Press and topstitch the top edge only. ￼￼ Grab one lining piece and place the slip pocket 1.25” down from the top. Baste the sides in place. Topstitch the bottom at 1/8”. Then topstitch down the center to separate the pocket. ￼
Step 8- creating the lining. Place both lining pieces right sides together. Sew the sides and bottom, then box the corners. Refer to step 6 ￼￼
Step 9- putting it all together! Turn your lining right sides out and your exterior wrong sides out. Place the lining inside the exterior. Match up the side seams, clip and sew all the way around the top. ￼￼￼￼ Now, reach into the bottom of the zipper pocket and carefully pull the entire bag through. ￼￼ Close up the bottom of the pocket. Tuck the lining down inside the exterior and topstitch the entire top edge, making sure to keep the flap out of the way. ￼￼￼￼
Step 10- making the crossbody strap. Take the two 1” squares and draw a line down the center. I like to use dst to hold it, but again, not necessary. Burn the ends of your webbing and fold one of the squares over one end. ￼￼￼￼ Loop this end around the center bar on the slide and topstitch or use a rivet to secure. ￼￼ Slide one swivel clip on then you will thread the raw edge through the slide. This is hard to explain, hopefully the pictures help! ￼￼￼ Slide the other swivel on the raw edge, add your vinyl square and topstitch in place! ￼￼ ￼￼ And you are finished!!!
The tutorial for Binder Buddy is finished and published to my YouTube channel!!! This is a scary but exciting journey, and I hope you all love it! This is a very beginner friendly pattern, however, it is made with vinyl or cork because the edges are exposed. Don’t be afraid, my testers all used a domestic machine!!!
I’m so sorry that I’ve been silent lately. Life has been crazy and my creative juices for writing a blog post have just not been flowing. I’ve been sewing… A LOT😂. But also trying to hang out with my kids for the summer. It’s been hectic!
I am currently working on a tutorial for an adorable binder pouch that my customers have named Binder Buddy!!! I’m still not much in the mood for writing, and I always get asked for videos to go along with the blog tutorials, so I’m going to head to YouTube! I haven’t fully decided if I will keep the blog but I do know that I am going to work on a video tutorial for each of my previous blog tutorials! The first video (hopefully next week) will be for the Binder Buddy! Here’s a sneak of this cutie!
When I have my first video up, I will come back here with a link to my YouTube channel! I appreciate all of your support to this point and I hope this change will be well received!
***A quick tip before we start. I suggest using a woven fabric. I tried with a cotton spandex and it was too thick in spots.***
You will need:
swivel hook-I like the ones attached to a split key ring or 1/2″ swivel clips
for non directional fabric: 1 piece 7″w x 9.5″-10″h (you really can make them any height) plus interfacing
for directional fabric: 2 pieces 7″w x 5″h plus interfacing
1 piece 2″ x 3″ NO INTERFACING
Start by ironing your interfacing on each piece.
*If you are using non directional fabric, hold tight for just a minute!
Take your two pieces of directional fabric and place right sides together. Make sure both pieces are facing the same direction and stitch the bottom only.
After you have sewn them together, fold it in half to find the center. Make a mark. Snip close to your seam but not through. Trim your seam allowance to reduce bulk.
Open the entire thing up. Press your seam down, pushing each side a different direction-this will allow you to nest your seam to reduce bulk.
*Directional or non directional fabric options continue here:
Tip: wash away hem tape helps so much!
Fold the top and bottom edges down about 1/4″ (this is where I use the hem tape).
Fold it in half to find the center. I marked it just so you can see, it’s not necessary! Open it up then fold each side in to meet the center crease you just made. Then fold in half to hide the raw edges.
***If you are doing directional fabric, this is where you want to nest your seam
Topstitch one short end…this will be the top of the pocket, so pick the pretty side! Set aside for a minute.
To make the tab for the top: 3″ is your length and finished width will be 1/2″. Fold the fabric the same way you did the main piece to hide the raw edges. ***You do not need to fold the ends over though because they will be hidden*** Topstitch the open side.
Loop this piece through your swivel clip and set aside for a minute.
Back to the main piece! Fold the end that you topstitched up, so that it is an inch(ish) from the top of the unsewn end. and clip in place. Now tuck the swivel clip into the top edge.
Start sewing at the bottom on the open side. Stitch all three sides, making sure to backstitch at the beginning/end but also at the top (both sides) of the pocket. Trim your threads and you are finished!!!
These little cuties are perfect for lip balms but also for your essential oil rollerballs!!!
I hope you love these and find this tutorial helpful! Please feel free to use this pattern for personal or small business use, but please keep in mind that this was a lot of trial and error…and wasted fabric! LOL I would appreciate if you would link your friends back to this tutorial. Thank you all!
I was asked to come up with a cute, little zipper pouch that could hold cards on the outside! After a couple tries, I came up with this design and they really are adorable! It sounded really boring to call it a card and coin pouch, so I asked my Facebook group for suggestions! I got a lot of good ones, but the WhatchaMaCallit Wallet just fit perfectly! LOL They are a really quick and easy sew…but the best part is that you can use up your scraps that you haven’t been able to bring yourself to toss!!! So, today I am going to share my pattern with you!
*I do not mind you using this pattern or sharing it, but would very much appreciate if you gave me credit or linked back to this post.
Before we get started, I will share a little knowledge with you! Bag making seems scary but I promise it’s not…jump in and have fun! Get creative! Patterns are just suggestions, if something seems like a better way to you, do it! Try different interfacings or fabrics. There are so many ways to do things and the beauty of sewing is you can do things the way you like or the way they make sense to you! I use Pellon 950f interfacing for all my bags, but I suggest going into a fabric store and feel the different types to decide what will work best for your project! And try different fabric types…I love using my scrap bin for projects like this! You can use wovens, cotton spandex, double brushed poly and even sweater knit!
Now that I’ve told you to get creative, there are somethings you should not do…at least for this pattern! While you can use just about any fabric for the flat side on this (the neon leopard above is double brushed poly), you should only use a woven for the card slot side. If you use an interfaced knit for the card slots, it will be way too thick in several spots. The next one is not a definite No No, but just a suggestion…especially if you are using custom fabric. If I use custom fabric for the flat side, I make my card slots out of a non custom fabric. The reason being, by the time you fold it up you really won’t see much of the pattern, so there’s really no sense in wasting a 16″ strip of expensive fabric.
*All of the fabric I’m using is from So Sew English fabrics https://sosewenglishfabrics.com/. The neon leopard is double brushed poly that I had left over from a shirt I made, the stripes are a seersucker woven and the blue for the lining I believe was a chambray! This shop is hands down my favorite place to get fabric…the quality is always amazing and the prices are very affordable!
So let’s just dive in! Here are the materials you will need:
4.5″ x 6″ 1 pc main fabric
4.5″ x 6″ 2 pcs lining fabric
16″ x 6″ 1 pc fabric for card slots (this will be big but we will trim it down later)
interfacing for all of the above pieces
#3 zipper at least 7″ long-I like to go about 10″ and cut it down later
ruler and marking pen
Iron all of your interfacing on before you start
We are going to start by making the card slots. Take your card slot piece, turn it to the back and mark the top. Start at the top and draw a line 3″ down, then 1.75″ from there, 2.25″, 1.75″, 2.25″, 1.75″. You should have 6 lines drawn.
Now take the top and fold to the front at the 3″ line. Then fold to the back on the 1.75″ line. Forward on the 2.25″ line, back on the 1.75″ line, etc!
The next step is to topstitch each pocket. Fold the other two out of the way to stitch. You should have nice creases now so it won’t be an issue getting them back in place.
Line all of your card slots back up. Now is the time to adjust them if any look crooked. Sew down both sides very close to the edge to lock the slots in place.
You will notice that the card slot side is bigger than the flat side, so we need to trim it down. Take your ruler and measure 1″ from the top of the first card slot, then trim the top edge. Then measuring from the top, we want it to be 4.5″, cut off the extra at the bottom.. Now all 4 pieces should be the exact same size!
If you slide a card into the slots right now, it will not stay put because the slot is too big. There are other ways of doing this so we don’t have the void on the sides but I wanted a simple project so this is how I’m doing it! We need to stitch both sides of the card slot piece, 1.25″ in on both sides. I have this nifty magnetic seam guide that helps me a lot!
Now we are ready for the zipper!!! Switch to your zipper foot now if you have one. Check your machine accessory tray because they don’t all look like mine. Pull the zipper pull all the way to the left…for now, we will have it hanging over the edge of your fabric, this makes it so much easier to sew! Take a lining piece and lay it right side up, then the zipper with pull to the left teeth facing up and finally the card slots right side down. You are sandwiching the zipper between the lining and card slots. Sew the zipper in place. I line the edge of my foot up with the edge of my fabric/zipper sandwich! Then you will flip the lining and main over so they are wrong sides together and topstitch. Repeat with the other side of the zipper.
Push your zipper pull just inside the outer edge of your fabric and put a couple stitches over the zipper to hold it closed. After you have done this Open your zipper 3/4 of the way…this part is very important!
Next, we are going to match up the two outside pieces so they are right sides together and the two lining pieces the same way.
Fold your zipper tape in half toward the outside pieces and clip. Repeat for other side. Clip all the way around leaving an opening on the bottom edge of the lining. Stitch all the way around (except for the hole in the lining) with a 1/4″ (ish) seam allowance. *I use the edge of my foot as my guide. As long as you use the same everywhere, you really can use any seam allowance you want on any bag!* Make sure you backstitch at the beginning and end, but also over both sides of the zipper.
Trim your zipper ends a little closer (but no too close) to the seam to reduce bulk. Clip all 4 corners…again close but don’t snip your stitching. I like to trim a little off the card slot sides just to cut down the bulk but it really isn’t necessary!
Reach in the hole you left open and gently pull the pouch through, so it is right sides out. Use a stick, pencil, etc to gently poke the corners out (make sure you don’t poke through). And also push out the zipper close to the pull. Fold the seam allowance at the opening down inside and top stitch.
Push the lining down into the main and your WhatchaMaCallit Wallet is finished!
I hope this tutorial was helpful and always feel free to ask any questions you have!
This wristlet is a pattern I came up with on my own…after tons of trial and error!!! Please feel free to use this pattern but I would appreciate credit or a link back to this blog if you wouldn’t mind! The plaid main fabric and pink lining fabric is from So Sew English Fabrics https://sosewenglishfabrics.com/ , and the bubbled metallic vinyl and rose gold hardware is from My Punkbroidery https://mypunkbroidery.com/. Check out both of those shops…they are definitely some of my faves!
2 pcs-4.5″ x 10″ of your main fabric plus interfacing for both
2 pcs-3″ x 10″ vinyl
2 pcs- 6.75″ x 10″ of lining plus interfacing
2 pcs-4″ x 6″ for pocket plus interfacing
1 pc 3″ x 13″ or 2 pcs 2.75″ x 13″ (this is if you are using a thicker fabric) 1 pc should be a thin woven plus interfacing
1 pc 3″ x 2″ for the d ring tab NO INTERFACING
4 pcs 1.75″ x 2″ for zipper tabs NO INTERFACING
3/4″ d ring and swivel clip
10″ (or longer) #5 zipper tape and pull to match
I like to start with the d ring tab and the wrist strap because they are my least favorite! If you aren’t using a thick fabric you can just cut your strap as one piece. If your fabric is thick, you will want to back it with something thinner. You also want to use a thinner woven with no stretch for the d ring tab and the zipper tabs. Fold the d ring tab in half and crease it. Open it up and fold both sides into the center crease, then fold the entire piece in half and topstitch. Add your d ring and set aside.
For the strap- if using one piece fold like the step above. My main fabric is thick so I will be backing it with my lining fabric. Sew the two pieces right sides together down one side. Open it up and fold the same way you did the d ring tab. Slide your swivel clip on, removing most of your clips. I like to slide the swivel clip to the middle and use a sewing clip on each side just to keep it out of the way. Open your ends and match them right sides together. Stitch. Trim your seam allowance to remove bulk.
You now have a continuous loop!!! Fold the sides back in and fold in half. Clip in place. Start at the seam and stitch the open side, then flip it and stitch the closed side, moving your swivel clip out of the way as you go. Flip right side out, slide your swivel down close to the seam and stitch across, as close as you can get to the clip. Set aside.
Next we will prep the zipper. I use zipper tape by the yard but you can use a premade zipper. I personally like to have my zipper a little long and cut it down because it gives me a little wiggle room if something doesn’t end up perfect! Start by taking 2 of your zipper tab pieces. Lay one right side up, lay the zipper on top right side up and then the other tab right side down. Stitch. Flip both pieces right sides out and to the end of the zipper. Topstitch.
For the other end, I lay the zipper on top of one of my main pieces and mark where I want my zipper tab at Tip: I like to have a little bit of the tabs hanging over the edge. Now you will sew this end the same way you did the first end. Trim the tabs so they are the same width of the zipper…this makes it easier to sew later! Set your zipper aside for a minute!
Take your 2 main and 2 vinyl pieces. Lay each set right sides together and stitch. Change your stitch length to 3.5 or 4 and if you have a teflon foot…use it now!!! If you don’t have a teflon foot, you can use tissue paper and just pull it off later. Vinyl is sticky so you will definitely want something to help it glide over. Flip the vinyl down and topstitch.
CHANGE YOUR STITCH LENGTH BACK!!!
To sew the pocket-place both pieces right sides together, start sewing at the bottom and sew all the way around leaving a small hole for turning. Trim your corners and cut down any bulk. Turn right side out. Fold in the bottom and clip closed. Topstitch only the top edge.
Take one lining piece and fold in half to find the center. Find the center of your pocket and place in the center of your lining. Pin in place and stitch around the sides and bottom.
Lay your lining piece with the pocket face up. Place the zipper face up with the pull to the left on top, then one of your outside pieces face down. Clip in place. TIP: you may need to move your zipper pull as you sew to keep it out of the way. Change to your zipper foot and sew.
After you have your zipper attached, flip both pieces back and finger press. Topstitch using your zipper foot. Then repeat with the other side.
OPEN YOUR ZIPPER HALF WAY!!!
Fold your main pieces right sides together, start at the vinyl seams so that it looks nice from the sides. Then fold the zipper tabs together towards the outside (sorry this part is hard to explain). Go ahead and do both sides.
Next we will attach the d ring. Look inside and make sure you are putting it on the correct side first. We want the d ring attached to the side that the zipper is open. Then clip it between both layers of fabric. Finish clipping the rest of the way around. Leave a small opening in the lining for turning.
Stitch around the entire thing, making sure to backstitch over the zipper tabs and the d ring tab. Then you also want to do a second line of stitching on the vinyl. This will take the stress off the seams and hopefully prevent ripping! Trim your zipper tabs to reduce the bulk.
To box the corners, you will need a small quilting ruler and a marking pen or chalk. Reach inside the bag and press the corners out so that the seam is flat. Place your ruler with the 3/4″ mark on the seam. That will give you a finished corner of 1.5″. Stitch with two rows of stitching. Repeat with the other 3 corners. Trim off all 4 corners.
Flip right sides out. Use your finger to poke all the corners out. Also poke out the zipper ends…carefully!!!
Fold the lining opening in and stitch it closed. Push the lining inside the wristlet and add your strap!!!
This little wristlet is such a quick sew but is also so beautiful!!!
But sometimes a girl just needs a quicker sew! I still wanted to have a pocket so I put my thinking cap on and came up with the zipper pocket hack! And because so many of you have also asked how I do the rounded base, I will show you that too! For this hack we only need the pattern pieces for the lining, base and stabilizer. You will use the lining piece for your waterproof canvas and your main fabric plus interfacing for the outer, cut two of the round base (I like to use waterproof canvas inside and out), peltex for the stabilizer piece plus two pieces of interfacing, your strap and strap tabs according to the pattern, and a piece of woven for the pocket lining 8.5″ x 10″ with interfacing the same size.
To make the zipper pocket, take your outside piece and fold it in half to find the center. Mark at the top and bottom. I also like to place a clip at both marks so I make sure to line my pocket up properly. Set this aside for a minute.
Now, take your pocket lining piece. Fold it in half to find the center and mark. Measure down 1″ from the top and draw a 7″ line, then move down 1/2″ and draw another 7″ line. Connect the ends to make a rectangle that is 7″ x 1/2″.
Grab your main piece and lay it right side up on your table. Then take the pocket lining piece and lay right side down on top of the main. Place the top edge of your lining along the center markings on your main…this is where the clips come in handy! Pin it in place and sew around the rectangle.
Next we will cut! You want to clip right up to the stitching in the corners but do not snip through…you won’t like yourself very much!!! I draw a triangle at both sides, fold it in half and cut the first triangle with the smallest scissors I can find. Then switch to regular scissors to cut the straight line, then back to the small scissors for the other triangle.
After you have cut it carefully, pull the lining through to the back, and press it flat…I just finger press it but someone who is not lazy would probably suggest using your iron! LOL Tip: I use a small piece of hem tape to hold the top edge down while I am adding the zipper
To attach the zipper, you can use pins but I highly recommend hem tape. The tape allows you to move the zipper easily if you need to, so it ends up perfectly straight. I use hem tape so this is how I am going to show you. Place a piece of hem tape on each side of the zipper opening, pull off the paper and lay your zipper face down (make sure the pull is at the top! Press it down, then flip it over and adjust from the front if needed. Topstitch around the entire rectangle. Tip: I use my zipper foot so I can get close to the zipper.
Open zipper half way!
Flip to the back side and trim your zipper ends. Then you will fold the pocket up and clip around the edges.
Sew around the three open sides of the pocket. Clip your corners and trim the top and bottom edges…this step will make your life easier when you are putting the bag together!
Fold your main piece in half and sew down the open side.
Your zipper pocket is done!!! You can follow along with the pattern to finish constructing the bag!!! But if you want to see how I attach my bases keep reading!
I like to use Peltex for my base stabilizer, but I sandwich it between two pieces of interfacing first. Make the interfacing bigger than the peltex so you can sew it in. After you sew it to your outside bottom piece, trim it.
Now you want to mark 4 equal spots on the base and the main piece.
Match up the 4 marks on the base and main. Clip in place. Then clip a section at a time until you have it clipped all the way around.
Sewing it is the hard part, but if you take it slow I promise it will work out beautifully! Keep the edge of your foot along the edge of the base, go slow and try to keep your base flat! After you finish sewing, carefully make small clips around the canvas…I don’t worry too much about the fabric because it will push out of the way but the canvas is stiff and won’t look as nice from the outside.
Turn it right side out and admire your work! Repeat with the lining. Finish your bag per the pattern instructions!
This pocket fits my Iphone and my older Samsung, however, I don’t have a bigger phone to test it out. My phone fits with a bit of extra room for my other necessities!
I hope this tutorial was super helpful! Thank you for being here!
Hi friends! Life has been crazy and I have been gone for way too long! But I am here today to share my new favorite pattern with you! Sonia Estep Designs just released the Penelope Pants and they are just amazing! Options include joggers, yoga pants, pockets and drawstring. They are based on the fit of the Iris shorts pattern and are every bit as awesome!
The thing I love most about SED patterns (besides the fit) is the instructions…they can make even the beginner sewist feel very confident! The tutorials are all very detailed, have very clear photos and teach you how to adjust for your body. If you look at tester photos, the garments look great on everyone because we all know how to personalize them!
The first pair I have to show you is made from a custom cotton french terry from Purple Dragon Fabrics https://purpledragonfabrics.com/. This french terry is thick, warm, soft and stretchy…making it the perfect fabric for joggers! I have also used the cotton spandex from this shop (just no picture proof) and it is amazing as well!!!
Pair # 3 is the yoga pants version and pair #4 is the jogger version, both in a jacquard double knit from Surge Fabric Shop https://surgefabricshop.com/. I love that the same lounge pants pattern can also be used for “real” pants!
I hope you love all of my versions of Penelope but mostly I hope you make your own and love them just as much as we do! If you are interested in supporting my sewing, feel free to use my affiliate link to purchase any patterns https://sonia-estep-designs.myshopify.com?aff=8. My link doesn’t cost you anything extra but I do receive a small commission every time it is used…so thank you for your support!