sewing tutorials · Uncategorized

Ginger Crossbody Tutorial

I started making these adorable self-drafted crossbody bags and they were a big hit, so I decided I would write up a tutorial! A member of my Facebook group named it the Ginger crossbody, and I really loved it…in case you wondered where the name came from! This is a very simple sew with only rectangle pieces to cut! Let’s get started:

Ginger crossbody

Woven, cotton spandex or vinyl
I’m using a 1/4” seam allowance

Hardware/extras:
1-1” strap slide
2-1” swivel clips
2-1” strap connectors #5 zipper tape-10” #5 zipper pull 1-magnetic snap
60” of 1” webbing
Small pieces of vinyl for the strap ends and zipper overlay.
Double sided tape (dst)- 1/8”. I use 1/8” and 1/4” but that’s not necessary

Cut:
*if using vinyl or waterproof canvas, you do not need interfacing.
-4 pieces (2 main and 2 lining) 9” high x 12” wide, plus interfacing
-2 pieces (1 main and 1 lining) 7” high x 10” wide. This is the flap and we will round the edges.
-2 pieces 2” x 3” for strap connectors
-2 pieces 10” x 6” for exterior zipper pocket
-vinyl for overlay, 8” x 1.5” with a box cut out of the middle that is 7” x 1/2”. You can round or angle the ends if you want.
-2 pieces 6.5” high x 12” wide for interior slip pocket
-2 pieces 1” squares of vinyl for strap ends

*I am using vinyl exterior with waterproof canvas lining, so I will not be using interfacing at all. You will need interfacing on any piece that is not vinyl or waterproof canvas, so add accordingly.

Step 1- making your zipper overlay.

You can also purchase premade overlays from https://www.joleeleecreations.com/

To make your own, you can use a template (which is what I do), or make your own! Your outside box should be 8” x 1.5”, then center a box inside that is 7” x 1/2”. Carefully cut that box out.

Step 2- making the strap connectors.
Take your two strap connector pieces and draw a line down the center of the long side. I use double sided tape for the next part but it’s not necessary. Fold both long edges in to the line you just drew. Topstitch as close to the center raw edges as possible. I like to do it with the wrong side up so I can see where I’m at. Add your strap connector hardware and set aside.



Step 3- Back zipper pocket
Mark the center of your back exterior piece.

Add double sided tape to the back of your overlay. Place it, centered, 1.5” down from the top of the back piece.

Stitch around the outside only… do not stitch the inside box. You can backstitch if you choose to but pulling the threads to the back gives a nicer finish. Just pull to the back, knot and singe with a lighter.

Carefully cut the center of the zipper box out. It doesn’t have to look pretty, you just need to cut it back far enough that you can’t see the edges peeking out of the overlay.

Next take one of your zipper pocket lining pieces and your zipper tape. You can put your pull on now if you prefer. I like to add it later. Line the edge of the zipper tape up with the top edge of your lining piece. And edge stitch in place (approximately 1/8” from the edge)

Repeat with the other lining piece and the other edge of the zipper tape.

Separate one end of the zipper tape just a bit and slide your pull on.

Add 1/8” dst to both edges of your zipper tape.

Place the pocket lining you just created on your table. Zipper opening to the left and BOTH pieces of the lining pushed to the top. Remove just the bottom dst and lay your back panel over the zipper, make sure it’s centered.

Topstitch the BOTTOM ONLY of the zipper box. Pull your threads to the back, tie and singe.

Finger press both lining pieces down. Remove the dst from the top and press it in place. Adjust if needed.Then we will topstitch the three remaining sides of the zipper box. Again, pull your threads to the back and tie them off.

Now you will notice that the top piece is shorter, trim them to match.

Fold both bottom edges up 1/4-1/2” and clip in place.

Next we will sew up both sides of the pocket but not the bottom. Sew as close as you can to the zipper overlay. Backstitch at the top and bottom of both sides. After you sew, you want to trim very close to the seam at the bottom… this will cut the bulk in your corners. Trim up and burn the ends of your zipper.

Stop right now and open your zipper!!!

Step 4- making the flap.
Take your exterior flap piece and round both bottom corners. I have this little colander that is the perfect size! I use my chalk to trace the curve and cut with my scissors. I leave the lining square so I have room to work.

Installing the magnetic snap depends on the snap you use. I’m using rivet snaps, mine won’t go in just yet. The two options are rivet snaps or snaps with prongs.

Find the center of your flap lining piece and make a mark 1.25” up from the bottom. If you are using prong snaps, you need to insert the male portion now… before you sew.

Place the two flap pieces right sides together and sew around the sides and bottom, leaving the top open. Then you will trim your seam allowance down to reduce bulk at the curves.

Turn right sides out and topstitch at 1/8”.

I’m using rivet snaps, so now is the time I will add mine, through all of the layers.

Next, everyone will add the female portion of the snap to the front piece. Make a mark, centered, 3.5” down from the top. Add your snap.


Step 5- cutting some corners!
Cut a 1.25” square out of the bottom corners on all 4 of the main pieces.


Step 6- creating the exterior.
Place your two exterior pieces right sides together and sew the sides and bottom.

To box the bottom corners, push them out so that the seams meet up. Sew along the straight edge. Be sure to backstitch or tie off your ends.

Turn the exterior right side out. Place the flap on the back side, right sides together, matching up the center marks. Clip both strap connectors in place, centered over the side seams. Baste all of it in place.

Set the exterior aside for now!

Step 7- interior slip pocket
Take both pieces of the slip pocket and place right sides together. This is a great place to add a tag if you want to! Stitch only the top and bottom.

Carefully turn it right sides out. I like to roll my top seam to the front a little, but it’s not necessary. The reason I do this is for visual interest and to cut down bulk at the bottom. Press and topstitch the top edge only.

Grab one lining piece and place the slip pocket 1.25” down from the top. Baste the sides in place. Topstitch the bottom at 1/8”. Then topstitch down the center to separate the pocket.

Step 8- creating the lining.
Place both lining pieces right sides together. Sew the sides and bottom, then box the corners. Refer to step 6


Step 9- putting it all together!
Turn your lining right sides out and your exterior wrong sides out. Place the lining inside the exterior. Match up the side seams, clip and sew all the way around the top.

Now, reach into the bottom of the zipper pocket and carefully pull the entire bag through.

Close up the bottom of the pocket. Tuck the lining down inside the exterior and topstitch the entire top edge, making sure to keep the flap out of the way.


Step 10- making the crossbody strap.
Take the two 1” squares and draw a line down the center. I like to use dst to hold it, but again, not necessary. Burn the ends of your webbing and fold one of the squares over one end.

Loop this end around the center bar on the slide and topstitch or use a rivet to secure.

Slide one swivel clip on then you will thread the raw edge through the slide. This is hard to explain, hopefully the pictures help!

Slide the other swivel on the raw edge, add your vinyl square and topstitch in place!


And you are finished!!!

Thank you for joining me!

Happy Sewing!!! ~Christy~

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