Do you struggle to get your neckbands to come out perfectly? I am going to show you how I do mine and share some tips along the way. Some fabrics are definitely more difficult to work with, a tip for those is to serge or zig zag the edges before you start…this will help with the rolling! Neckbands can be done with a stretch stitch on a regular sewing machine too, but since I have a serger I will be using it!
TIP: not all fabric has the same amount of stretch, so I always calculate my neckband instead of relying completely on the pattern piece. I measure the neck opening and multiply by 80%-90%, depending on the stretch percentage of the fabric. Typically higher stretch fabrics are fine with the neckband piece included with the pattern and I usually only calculate when I am using a lower stretch fabric. Does this make sense?
Let’s get started!!! Take your neckband piece and match up the ends right sides together, stitch. You will then have a circle.
Next, start at your seam and fold the neckband in half (closing your seam inside), place a clip or pin there. Then you will find the front center and mark there. Match up those 2 marks so that you can find the 2 center points between the front and back. You have now quartered your neckband!
Tip: I find it easier if you leave your top inside out to attach the neckband.
Now you will quarter your bodice. Fold the top in half to find the back and front center points, mark those spots. Open the bodice back up, pull the front clip up to meet the back clip to find the other 2 quarter marks. Notice that the shoulder seams are not the quarter points.
Match the neckband seam up with your back center clip, then match up the other 3 spots.
You want to stretch the band evenly between the quarter marks and clip in between. You should NEVER have to stretch the bodice at all, only the band should be stretched a little.
Tip: When sewing, I like to start at the back seam because the start/stop is almost always where my mistakes happen, and they will be hidden in the back! I also like to sew with the bodice up and the neckband closest to the sewing machine/serger plate. I feel like I have the best control that way…but you have to do whatever makes your life easiest!
Starting at the back, sew all the way around your neckband making sure to go slowly and stretch evenly. Only remove your clips when you get to them. The small sections make it easier to stretch evenly!
You can topstitch if you feel the need to…I’m a pretty lazy sewist, so I usually do not!!! Turn your shirt right sides out and admire your perfect neckband!
Stay tuned for more info on this beautiful Hannah from Sonia Estep Designs! Affiliate link: http://sonia-estep-designs.myshopify.com?aff=8
I hope this tutorial was helpful! Please ask questions if not. Happy Sewing!